How To (DIY)
This is my brief How To for changing brakes pads. 
Please bare in mind that this may invalidate your warranty as this has not officially been done by NISSAN themselves. Furthermore do not try this yourself if you are not mechanically trained as this is the part of the car which stops you from rear ending everyone 
although it is very simple and i believe even my girlfriend could do this herself 
Anyway with that out of the way.
Tools used:
1. A wrench (i used a lug/spider wrench although make sure this is the right size as it can remove some paint when turning!)
2. A jack (The item used to lift the car off the ground)
3. A brake piston rewind kit. (although a C-clamp worked absolutely fine)
4. A general socket set useful for removing the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
5. Your own locking wheel nut thingy (to remove your locking wheel nut, duh!)
Things needed:
1. New pads.
2. Copper grease
3. A small amount of time (I'm talking an hour per axel)
Steps:
1. First of all, find your jacking point. Any strong point I.e. Chassis is a good idea. Put your jack in place and get it set but don't lift the car until after the next step.
2. whilst the wheels are on the floor loosen the bolts, use your wrench and turn the bolts atleast a full turn.
3. Lift the desired wheel off the floor fully so that the wheel is no longer touching the floor.
4. Remove the bolts from the wheels and take the wheel off your car.
5. In front of you will be the brake disc and caliper (among other things but that's for another DIY!
)
(the black circle is your brake caliper and the red square is your brake line. Be EXTRA careful of this!)
6. First of all look at the rear of the caliper, there are two bolts holding the caliper in place.
7. Use a socket set to remove just the bottom brake bolt. (The top bolt is difficult to remove due the brake line, if you remove the brake line you will need to top up your fluid and bleed the system so avoid removing this)
(The Red square is your brake line again and the black circle is the bolt that holds you caliper in place.)
8. Pull the bottom of the brake caliper so it orbits around the top bolt. I then rested this of the old brake pads as you do not want to move the brake line too much and having two hands for the next step help a lot!
9. Whilst having the brake caliper partially out you will see the brake piston (also known as a slave cylinder). Use a piston rewind kit to push the piston back in.
(The white is square is the brake piston and the blue square is the brake pad; there is a brake pad on either side)
10. Next remove the old brake pads (make sure you know which way the came off) and replace your new pads into the caliper holder however make sure you put copper grease onto the REAR of the pad, this will help minimise brake squeal. This is the trickiest place as there is two bits of metal that require a bit of shimmy to get these in the right place.
11. Finally put it back together in the reverse order.
12. Get in your car, turn it on, and pump your brakes a bit as when you push the slave cylinder back in you may need to pump your brakes to get the piston back against your pads.
Voila! I don't believe I have missed anything out
This is for the rear wheels, the only difference for the front is I removed the caliper completely instead of just 1/2 bolts
Please bare in mind that this may invalidate your warranty as this has not officially been done by NISSAN themselves. Furthermore do not try this yourself if you are not mechanically trained as this is the part of the car which stops you from rear ending everyone although it is very simple and i believe even my girlfriend could do this herself Anyway with that out of the way.Tools used:
1. A wrench (i used a lug/spider wrench although make sure this is the right size as it can remove some paint when turning!)
2. A jack (The item used to lift the car off the ground)
3. A brake piston rewind kit. (although a C-clamp worked absolutely fine)
4. A general socket set useful for removing the bolts that hold the caliper in place.
5. Your own locking wheel nut thingy (to remove your locking wheel nut, duh!)
Things needed:
1. New pads.
2. Copper grease
3. A small amount of time (I'm talking an hour per axel)
Steps:
1. First of all, find your jacking point. Any strong point I.e. Chassis is a good idea. Put your jack in place and get it set but don't lift the car until after the next step.
2. whilst the wheels are on the floor loosen the bolts, use your wrench and turn the bolts atleast a full turn.
4. Remove the bolts from the wheels and take the wheel off your car.
5. In front of you will be the brake disc and caliper (among other things but that's for another DIY!
)
6. First of all look at the rear of the caliper, there are two bolts holding the caliper in place.
7. Use a socket set to remove just the bottom brake bolt. (The top bolt is difficult to remove due the brake line, if you remove the brake line you will need to top up your fluid and bleed the system so avoid removing this)
8. Pull the bottom of the brake caliper so it orbits around the top bolt. I then rested this of the old brake pads as you do not want to move the brake line too much and having two hands for the next step help a lot!
9. Whilst having the brake caliper partially out you will see the brake piston (also known as a slave cylinder). Use a piston rewind kit to push the piston back in.
10. Next remove the old brake pads (make sure you know which way the came off) and replace your new pads into the caliper holder however make sure you put copper grease onto the REAR of the pad, this will help minimise brake squeal. This is the trickiest place as there is two bits of metal that require a bit of shimmy to get these in the right place.
11. Finally put it back together in the reverse order.
12. Get in your car, turn it on, and pump your brakes a bit as when you push the slave cylinder back in you may need to pump your brakes to get the piston back against your pads.
Voila! I don't believe I have missed anything out
This is for the rear wheels, the only difference for the front is I removed the caliper completely instead of just 1/2 bolts
Here's the link for the pads:
Rear:
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissa ... 2f8&000036
Fronts:
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissa ... bc2&000036
These are the Pagid type and they are sooo much better then what you get from NISSAN in terms of stopping power. I will always buy these now
Rear:
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissa ... 2f8&000036
Fronts:
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Nissa ... bc2&000036
These are the Pagid type and they are sooo much better then what you get from NISSAN in terms of stopping power. I will always buy these now
Great review
Always a help to see these kind of things on line
Just one point to make,,make sure to take off yr brake fluid cap under the bonnet before u push the piston back,,if u dont do this u could damage yr master cyclinder and seals
When finished refitting yr new brakes,,check yr brake fluild and pop the cap back on!
Job done
Hope u make more of these
( help to guides )
Good job
Always a help to see these kind of things on line
Just one point to make,,make sure to take off yr brake fluid cap under the bonnet before u push the piston back,,if u dont do this u could damage yr master cyclinder and seals
When finished refitting yr new brakes,,check yr brake fluild and pop the cap back on!
Job done
Hope u make more of these
( help to guides )
Good job
-
Deleted User 470
The price of those rear pads makes me cry. I got mine from EBC for £25 delivered
